The History of Modern Fashion Daniel James Cole Pdf
The History of Mod Mode: From 1850
by Daniel James Cole and Nancy Deihl
Contents
Introduction 10
one 1850–1890 The Dawn of Mod Clothing 13
2 The 1890s Extremes of the Gilded Age 55
3 The 1900s A New Century 77
iv The 1910s Exotic Fantasy, Wartime Reality 99
5 The 1920s Les Années Folles 129
6 The 1930s Aspirations of Glamour 161
7 The 1940s War and Recovery 193
8 The 1950s Couture Opulence, Suburban Manner 231
ix The 1960s Manner for the Hereafter 267
10 The 1970s Revivals and Individuality 305
xi The 1980s Ability Dressing and Postmodernism 343
12 The 1990s Subcultures and Supermodels 377
13 The 2000s Mixed Messages 417
Affiliate Contents
Chapter i
1850–1890 The Dawn of Mod Wear 13
The Road to 1850 14
Social and Economical Background 14
The Arts 17
The Fruits of Manufacture 17
Fashion Media xix
The Fashionable Elite 19
The Elements of Women's Manner, 1850s and 1860s 24
The Elements of Women'southward Fashion, 1870s and 1880s 29
Designers and Dressmakers 34
Fashion Fabrics and Material Engineering science 39
The Cult of Mourning 39
Historic and Exotic Influences forty
Dress Reform and Artful Clothes 42
Women's Sports Clothing 44
Menswear 45
Children's Manner l
The Growth of the Fashionable Earth 52
Toward 1890 53
Chapter 2
The 1890s Extremes of the Gold Age 55
Social and Economical Groundwork 56
The Arts 56
The Elements of Women's Fashion 59
The Gibson Girl 62
Outerwear and Millinery 63
The Influence of Sport 65
Designers 66
Further Influence of Dress Reform 69
Menswear 70
Children's Fashion 72
Tattooing in Manner 73
Looking Toward a New Century 75
Affiliate 3
The 1900s A New Century 77
Social and Economical Background 78
The Arts 78
Mode and Society eighty
Manner Media 82
The Paris Exhibition of 1900 82
The Elements of Women'south Fashion 82
Foundations and Lingerie 85
Motherhood and Plus-Size Clothing 85
Outerwear and Millinery 86
Fur Outerwear 86
Designers 86
Beauty Treatments and Torso Shaping 92
Sports Wear 93
Menswear 94
Children's Fashion 96
The End of the Decade 97
Chapter 4
The 1910s Exotic Fantasy, Wartime Reality 99
Social and Economic Background 100
The Arts 100
Fashion and Lodge 102
Fashion Media 105
Bohemians and "Couture Bohemians" 106
The Elements of Women's Fashion 107
Outerwear 111
Millinery and Accessories 111
Foundations and Lingerie 113
Sports Wearable 114
Designers 114
The Beauty Industry 122
The War and Style 123
Menswear 124
Children's Fashion 126
The Terminate of the Decade 127
Chapter v
The 1920s Les Années Folles 129
Social and Economic Background 130
The Arts 130
The 1925 Exposition and Fine art Deco 131
Chinoiserie and Egyptomania 133
Russian Art and Way 134
German Civilisation 134
Manner Media 134
La Garçonne and the Flapper 135
The Elements of Women'due south Fashion 136
Outerwear 141
Millinery and Accessories 141
Foundations and Lingerie 142
Fashion Fabrics 142
Designers: France 143
Designers: United States 151
Costume Design and Fashion 152
Hair and Beauty 153
Sports Article of clothing 154
Menswear 155
Children's Fashion 157
The Growth of the Fashionable World 158
The Stop of the Decade 159
Chapter 6
The 1930s Aspirations of Glamour 161
Social and Economic Background 161
The Arts 162
Art and Politics 162
Fashion and Club 163
Fashion Media 163
Fashion Technologies 164
The Elements of Women's Fashion 165
Sports Vesture 168
Outerwear 170
Millinery and Accessories 170
Foundations and Lingerie 172
Designers: France 173
Designers: Britain 179
Designers: United States 180
Hollywood Costume Design 182
Vernacular Fashion 185
Hair and Beauty 187
Menswear 187
Children'south Style 189
The End of the Decade 191
Chapter vii
The 1940s War and Recovery 193
Social and Economic Background 193
The Arts 194
Fashion Media 196
Fashion and Club 197
The War and Fashion 197
Paris Fashion under the German Occupation 198
Fashion in Fascist Italian republic 200
Mode in Nazi Deutschland 200
Rationing and Utility in Great britain 201
North American Fashion "On Its Own" 202
The Elements of Women'south Style 1940–1946 203
Hair and Beauty 206
The Théâtre de la Fashion 208
Christian Dior and the "New Look" 209
The Elements of Women'southward Fashion 1947–1949 211
Designers: France 212
Designers: Britain 214
Designers: The states 215
Moving picture and Style 222
Menswear 224
Children's Mode 227
The End of the Decade 229
Chapter eight
The 1950s Couture Opulence, Suburban Style 231
Social and Economical Background 232
The Arts 233
Fashion Media 234
The Elements of Women's Fashion 235
Fashion Fabrics 238
Foundations and Lingerie 238
Hair and Beauty 240
Development of the Silhouette in the Late Decade 240
Designers: France 241
Designers: Britain 249
Designers: United States 250
Designers: Italy 254
Pic and Fashion 255
Menswear 258
Children'due south Mode 261
Fashion and Rebellion 264
The End of the Decade 265
Chapter 9
The 1960s Mode for the Futurity 267
Social and Economic Background 268
The Arts 268
Fashion Media 269
Fashion and Society 271
White House Manner 271
Mode Tribes and the Marketing of Private Taste 272
The Elements of Women's Fashion 273
Foundations and Lingerie 280
Accessories 280
The Boutique 281
Designers: France 282
Designers: United kingdom of great britain and northern ireland 287
Designers: Italy 289
Designers: United states of america 291
Film and Television and Way 296
Hair and Beauty 299
Menswear 300
Children's Fashion 302
The Finish of the Decade 303
Chapter 10
The 1970s Revivals and Individuality 305
Social and Economic Background 306
The Arts 306
Style Media 308
The Elements of Women'south Mode 310
Lingerie and Loungewear 311
Accessories 312
Hair and Beauty 313
Denim in Manner 315
Active Sportswear 315
The Unisex Style 316
Punk Fashion 316
Film and Fashion 316
Designers: France 320
Designers: Great britain 324
Designers: Italy 328
Designers: U.s.a. 329
Designers: Japan 334
Menswear 336
Children's Fashion 339
The End of the Decade 340
Chapter 11
The 1980s Power Dressing and Postmodernism 343
Social and Economical Background 344
The Arts 344
Mode and Society 346
The Diana Phenomenon 347
Fashion Media 348
Music and Fashion 348
Moving picture and Idiot box and Mode 350
The Elements of Women'southward Fashion 352
Accessories 353
Designers: France 355
Designers: Britain 361
Designers: Italy 364
Designers: United states 366
Designers: Commonwealth of australia 370
Hair and Beauty 370
Menswear 371
Children'due south Style 373
The End of the Decade 375
Chapter 12
The 1990s Subcultures and Supermodels 377
Social and Economical Groundwork 378
The Arts 378
Fashion Media 380
Heroin Chic 381
Style and Society 382
Movie and Fashion 382
Television and Style 385
Music and Fashion 386
Grunge 388
Goth 390
Hip-hop Style 390
Fashion Trends 391
Body Modification 393
The Elements of Women'southward Manner 393
Accessories 395
Foundations and Lingerie 396
Designers: France 396
Designers: Britain 398
Designers: United States 400
Designers: Italian republic 403
Designers: Kingdom of belgium 405
Hair and Beauty 408
Menswear 409
Children's Fashion 412
Asian Style 413
The Finish of the Decade 415
Chapter 13
The 2000s Mixed Messages 417
Social and Economical Background 418
The Arts 418
Fashion Media 420
Designers as Celebrities, Celebrities as Designers 421
Fashion and Society 422
Film, Television, Stage, and Fashion 424
Music and Mode 427
Fashion Trends 429
Responsible Style 430
Style Tribes 431
The Elements of Women'southward Fashion 433
Accessories 437
Foundations and Lingerie 438
Designers and Brands 439
Designers: France 441
Designers: Britain 443
Designers: Italian republic 445
Designers: United states of america 445
Hair and Beauty and Trunk Modification 447
Menswear 448
Children's Manner 452
Traditional Dress, Modernistic World 452
Asian Style 454
New Millennium, Global Sentry 459
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